Welcome to my first South East Asia travel blog – लाओ (Lao) edition! 🇱🇦
#HeritageOfThePastIsNeverFarFromABottleOfBeerLao.
As with a Lao greeting: Sabaidee ສະບາຍດີ (Hello) 🙏
Preface: I knew very little about Laos before this trip, other than their much loved mango sticky rice! Accordingly, I hopped onto the plane with no expectation, except for the anticipating lower back pain. 👵 ✈️
Little did I know what a hidden cultural gem Laos was – layers of exciting cuisine, breathtakingly untouched landscapes, silhouettes of Buddhist monks in their striking saffron robes, consistent sight of shops selling BeerLao🍺, and importantly, the beauty of simplicity as humbly observed in Lao people’s way of life. 🙏
Accompanying this blog is my Laos travel photo collection: The Tale of Two Capitals 📷
One week was never enough to explore and truly appreciate Laos. Nevertheless, I wanted to capture the fleeting moments and quiet feelings in motion as we zigzagged our way through Vientiane and Luang Prabang, with two foodie sections awaiting at the end (yes, keep scrolling).
Let’s start with ‘My Week in Laos in a nutshell’ 📷
Lao countryside felt like a living classical painting 🖼️. Although the dreamy, mystical veil over the scenery is partly a result of air pollution, it only serves to enhance what’s already there – a rustic, untouched beauty.
The sweet scented Dok Champa ດອກຈຳປາ (Plumeria Flower) 🌸 is a sacred cultural symbol and constant sight along the streets and temple grounds. Usually in a milky white petals with splash of yellow form, an image of the pink-blossomed variant bathing in the soft golden sunset glow was no less poetic.
BeerLao 🍻With a smooth, crisp, and refreshing finish, this local rice beer is something of a national favourite and an integral part of the modern Lao identity. For a short but thoughtful introduction to Lao values, culture and cuisine, I’d highly recommend: ‘Proud to Be Lao’ advert campaign.
Candid street encounters 😌 One such moment happened during a walk in Luang Prabang. We were so taken with this lady & her ginger cat that she eventually caught us sneakily snapping photos from across the road. With a grin, she teasingly gave her ginger a little bum slap, as if to say: “You’re famous now!” 😸
First stop: Vientiane 🛬
Welcome to the start of this trip!
After over ten hours in the air, we were gently welcomed to the region by Bangkok’s soothing sunset – the first of many magical sunsets we would witness over the course of this trip, before arriving at our final destination, Vientiane, a few hours later.
A Historical and Spiritual Capital & Phantoms from the Past 🙏
Buddhism is undoubtedly embedded in Vientiane’s everyday life, with temples and street altars woven into the very fabric of the city. Spirituality aside, one can feel the passage of time in Vientiane through its richly decorated temples, towering monuments wrapped in Lao artistry, and the not-so-subtle French influence seen in its urban planning and the many rues.
A brief temple visit painted a solemn picture of Laos’ past struggle for sovereignty, from the complete destruction of Vientiane in the 1820s and the displacement of its people, to the French colonial era. Reading about these hardships puts into perspective the resilience and dedication it has taken to rebuild and preserve Lao identity and heritage.
Pha That Luang, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Cotbb5CZYwx634vc9
Wat Sisaket, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/zn7Vh5jD5pgDRG5Z8
Wat Inpeng, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ru3si9kDB5jTSDXV8
Patuxay/Anousavary Monument, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/yEHZAKcHPfwyiU8Q9
Fast forward to the present – a visit to the COPE Visitor Centre was a stark reminder of the enduring consequences of the unexploded bombs dropped on Laos during the US-Vietnam war, and of how the nation is still haunted by these phantoms of the past.
COPE Visitor Centre, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/cs2oeQsSRBNJS2Ay7
Vientiane Night Market 🥘
Back to daily life – a trail of golden, glittering dust cast over the river, with dok champa nestled here and there, led us to the lively night market of Vientiane.
Vientiane Night Market: https://maps.app.goo.gl/RQMMBw8Cww3mhM9w5
Kin Khao Vientiane! (Let’s eat!)
Various Breakfasts – The Crown Plaza Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/6uqUBkFxUBydbcyM9
Khop Chai Deu, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/PRGosPzD4sNRkWSeA
Khao Niew Mak Muang ເຂົ້າໜຽວມະນາວ (Mango Sticky Rice) | Goi Pa ກ້ອຍປາ (Mekong Fish Salad)
3 Merchants, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ft3fKdW5nGxU4oA58
Larb Moo ລາບໝູ (Minced Pork Salad)
Kualao, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/LwKTzNB78bhTXKXXA
Or Larm ເອາະຫຼາມ (Aubergine-based Lao Stew, infused with ‘chilli wood’ Sakhaan ສະຄ້ານ | Kaipen ໄຄແຜ່ນ (Dried Riverweed) with Jaeo Bong ແຈ່ວບອງ (Chilly Paste Dipping Sauce) | Larb ລາບ (Minced Meat Salad) | Sai Oua ໄສ້ອັ່ວ (Lao Spicy Sausage) | Fishcakes, Spring Rolls, and assorted steamed or stir-fried vegetable | Gaeng Het (Mushroom Soup)
Mosaic, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/qm1TeDZkWuzcbP2N9
🦆-🍟-🍺
Next stop: Luang Prabang
Train to Luang & Curtain of Time ⌛
There’s a saying: “The early bird gets the worm“. I often like to point out that, by the same logic, it’s the early worm that becomes the birdie’s breakfast.
But on this fine morning, it was worth being early. What we caught, or perhaps what caught us, was a magnificent dawn, with the salted-egg-yolk sun casting its warm, welcoming rays over the bustling rhythm of everyday life at the train station.
Lao-China Railway Station, Vientiane: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Xypm9wYwjXpNNVKf8
After a quick stop at the Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre to learn about Laos’ diverse ethnic groups, and for a much-needed air-conditioning break 🥵, we made a brief visit to Ban Chan Neua Pottery Village. A tourist information board about nearby temples led me down a rabbit hole of fascinating temple history, where Lao princes once came to meditate before ascending the throne.
Today, meditation continues in those temples, now by Buddhist monks and pilgrims – separated only by a curtain of time from the princely presences that once sat there. A similar thought had crossed my mind a few days earlier, as I sat quietly among the hand-painted murals of Wat Sisaket in Vientiane.
Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre,Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/82zUamEowXC9RX8eA
Ban Chan Neua Pottery House, Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/PEerdStqwXpKrEPJ8
The Morning Alms 📿 & The Daily Rides
Early birdie 🐦 seems to have unintentionally become the theme for the rest of the trip! If you thought a 6:00 a.m. departure for the train was eye-watering (literally!), welcome to my 07:00 a.m. routine whilst in Luang Prabang.
On these fine mornings, I happened upon the image of saffron robes in motion, lines of stillness moving in silent rhythm, and the not-so-quiet devotion of worshippers. It felt almost cinematic, with each person playing a seemingly designated role in a spiritual dance – one of community, mild chaos, and faith.
On a lighter note, somebody mentioned Avatar: The Last Airbender, and I can’t unsee it now!
Morning Alms, Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JxrqWamDTSpQGzpH6
The centre of Luang Prabang is lovely, but we also ventured a little further out.
⛴️ A ferry ride across to Chomphet village, through the mythical river backdrop, complete with a statement meow-meme that read: “M’ever trust a man who doesn’t like cats” – hard to argue with that!
🚐 A longer minibus ride to Pak Ou Village, complete with my favourite image of the Lao countryside: the stillness, soft haze, and crystal reflection. It truly felt like a painting you could step into, all while life went on around us, with people mopeding their way out and about.
Sunset Cruise & Night Market 🌔
After crossing the river so many times, we finally got to be ‘in’ it – with a sunset cruise. I did promise a magical sunset at the beginning of this blog! 😉
This was easily the most magnificent sunset of the entire trip – a fleeting golden glow, followed by the soft blush of the sky, mountains fading into the distance, and the quiet current gently carrying us through its wonder. In a way, it felt like an early goodbye from Laos.
On board, laughter and chatter caught on merrily, with upbeat cruise music blasting in the background. A refreshing breeze featheringly brushed my face and left me feeling light-hearted in the moment. (Though I suppose that could’ve just come from a sip or two of the Luang Prabang beer I was holding!)
Afterwards, I found myself stockpiling Lao dried bamboo crisps at the night market – super addictive! 🐼
“Land of One Million Elephants”
Historically referred to as the Land of One Million Elephants, this proud legacy of the ancient Lan Xang kingdom now relies on conservation efforts for its survival, due to exploitation and habitat loss. We visited an elephant sanctuary and heard the stories of the elephants’ past lives – filled with pain, hardship, and sadness, before they were rescued and given a new home here.
MandaLao Elephant Conservation, Luang Prabang: https://mandalao.org/
As we near the end, I thought it would be fitting to close with a section about Lao national favourite 🍺, before seeing you off with the Luang Prabang foodie part. 👋
When in Laos, one simply has to cross paths with BeerLao! 🍻
I do enjoy a good pint, and the opportunity to sample local beer while travelling (check out the Carakale Blond Ale featured in my Jordan travel blog!). So naturally, when in Laos, one simply has to cross paths with BeerLao!
It all started with a semi-impulsive purchase of six BeerLao bottles from a little shop in Vientiane, as souvenirs for friends and family back home. After backpacking them to the hotel on a 20-minute walk in 35oC heat, it was decided that I deserved an ice-cold pint of BeerLao lager, fittingly by the poolside.
I’ve already written enough about its taste earlier in the blog, so here are just some more side stories of my BeerLao journey through Vientiane and Luang Prabang:
The Train Station
I thought I was being clever by getting the ‘beer-venirs’ sorted early in the trip – until the question arose: “Am I even allowed to carry nearly 2 litres of beer in my suitcases through the security check at Vientiane train station? “😳
(Yes, there was an airport-style checkpoint. And yes, they were rather strict about what one could bring onto the train.)
Either thanks to my friend’s “divide and conquer” strategy, or perhaps because the security staff were touched by this foreigner’s apparent appreciation for the national brand, my beer made it through!
World of BeerLao
It was challenging to travel with a bunch of beer bottles without knowing what they actually tasted like. At the first dinner in Luang Prabang, I thought to myself: “When in Luang, one should also sample the Luang variant.” Naturally, a few moments later, this evolved into: “Perhaps, I ought to have a sip of the other varieties too… minus the dark one!”. The rest, as they say, was history.
Kin Khao Luang Prabang (Let’s eat!)
Various Breakfasts – U Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/hdd32gwrh2w1zuEE9
Khaiphaen, Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/3yYLeGj3JonmKkBx7
Larb ລາບ (Minced Meat Salad) | Sai Oua ໄສ້ອັ່ວ (Lao Spicy Sausage) | Kaipen ໄຄແຜ່ນ (Dried Riverweed) and Khao Khob (Crispy Rice) with Jaeo Bong ແຈ່ວບອງ (Chilly Paste Dipping Sauce) and Jaeo Maklen ແຈ່ວຫມາກເລັ່ນ (Smokey and Spicy Tomato Dipping Sauce) | Khao Poon ເຂົ້າປຸ້ນ (Lao Red Curry Noodle Soup) with block of Galangal | Pandan Panna Cotta: melt in the mouth coconut flavoured base, sprinkled with pieces of ripe mango, roasted rice, bits of dried lime skin and a layer of pandan syrup.
Tamarind, Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/txoY6rGG6RmWRWK17
Tam Mak Hoong (Sour Spicy Green Papaya Salad) | Ping Som Moo (Grilled Cured Pork) | Oua Si Khai (Stuffed Lemongrass Chicken) | Mok Pa (Steamed Catfish in Banana Leaf Parcel) | Gaeng Som (Young Pumpkin Soup)
Le Calao, Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/urydM5ChbksSzUt56
Or Larm ເອາະຫຼາມ (Aubergine-based Lao Stew, infused with ‘chilli wood’ Sakhaan ສະຄ້ານ | Sai Oua ໄສ້ອັ່ວ (Lao Spicy Sausage) | Crown Daisy Soup | Fruit Platter with freshly squeezed Lime Juice | Nam Wan ນ້ໍາຫວານ (Coconut Fruit Dessert)
Kok Jong/ Amazing Mekong View, Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/pa7QhVhBfu7Rmejm8
Larb ລາບ (Minced Meat Salad) | Hom Hua Pla (Fish Soup with green vegetables, tomatoes, and herbs)
Popolo, Luang Prabang: https://maps.app.goo.gl/vjezAvi9e4igu5Ta9
Popolare (Dry-cured Pancetta, Mushroom, Thai Basil, Pesto, Parmesan, Watercress, Tomato, Mozzarella)
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